Francois Cotat Sancerre Les Monts Damnes 2022

If you've ever attended a classical concert, there's a brief pause between movements of a symphony; in it, there's a poised hush and a sense of crackling anticipation. The 2022 Monts Damnés reminds me of this hush. It is so very quiet, with a citrusy twinkle in its eye. Despite its initial delicacy and light body, its structure crescendos towards the wine's finale, offering a sense of body, muscle and sinew that requires more time in bottle. I'd happily wait a while.

• Trinkreife: 2024 - 2038
• Name des Kritikers: Rebecca Gibb MW