La Porte Saint Jean: The New Star of Saumur
Every generation has a name that defines its era in wine. In the Loire Valley, that name is Sylvain Dittiere. At just 23, he founded La Porte Saint Jean in the village of Montreuil-Bellay, and in less than two decades, he has become one of France’s most talked-about winemakers. For many, his wines recall the magic of Clos Rougeard before fame sent prices soaring. This is not imitation but evolution, the quiet rise of a vigneron crafting wines of purity, patience and soul.
Sylvain’s journey began with an extraordinary apprenticeship. After studying viticulture, he worked with some of France’s greatest names, including Thierry Germain in Saumur, Gérard Gauby in Roussillon, Marc Tempé in Alsace, and the legendary Foucault brothers at Clos Rougeard. Their influence runs deep. Today, as the son-in-law of Charly and Françoise Foucault, Sylvain continues their legacy with humility and precision, producing wines that speak clearly of the limestone-rich soils of Saumur.
La Porte Saint Jean covers just 8.5 hectares, all farmed organically and with the utmost respect for nature. The vineyards, rooted in tuffeau limestone and clay, are spread across Saumur and Saumur-Champigny. Cabernet Franc dominates, producing reds of remarkable finesse, while old-vine Chenin Blanc from prized parcels delivers whites of focus, texture and length. Every vine is hand-tended, every grape hand-picked, and nothing is rushed.
In the cellar, Sylvain’s approach is guided by patience and respect for natural balance. Grapes are pressed gently and fermented with native yeasts. The wines age in a 16th century limestone cave, where constant cool temperatures allow long, slow maturation. Reds spend up to two years in used barrels, while Chenin Blancs rest on their lees for around 30 months without racking. The result is a collection of wines that are pure, detailed and full of life.
The wine style:
The reds, led by Saumur-Champigny and Les Cormiers, show why critics are calling Dittiere the new Clos Rougeard. They are perfumed with violets, graphite and blackcurrant leaf, offering structure, tension and precision. Saumur Les Pouches Rouge expresses youthful fruit and freshness, while the whites, La Perlee and Les Pouches Blanc, show remarkable energy and a mineral core that reflects their limestone origins.
Wine Advocate’s Stephan Reinhardt notes that “Sylvain’s wines are very much sought after and do not need scores or even comments as long as they sell that quickly.” Greg Sherwood MW describes La Porte Saint Jean as “the estate most in the spiritual mould of the old Clos Rougeard,” adding that Charly Foucault’s spirit still seems to live there.
For collectors and drinkers alike, La Porte Saint Jean represents one of the Loire’s great stories in the making. These are wines built on precision, patience and place. The world has begun to take notice, but for now, it is still possible to be part of this remarkable journey from the very start.
