Bordeaux 2023 Vintage

The Bordeaux 2023 vintage has emerged as a paradoxical yet compelling year. Despite being one of the warmest years in recorded history, the vintage deviated from recent warm vintages like 2022, 2020, 2019, and 2018 by being less sunny. The 2023 growing season, running from May to September, was marked by both dry spells and intense rainfall, presenting both challenges and opportunities for winemakers. Despite these contradictions, the vintage has produced wines that display depth, density, and ripe tannins, while also preserving vibrant, expressive aromas. Bordeaux 2023 offers an intriguing contrast to recent years, with a potential for exceptional wines, albeit with variability across estates.

Bordeaux 2023: The Growing Season

The 2023 growing season began with an early budbreak on April 5, setting the stage for an accelerated start. However, alternating cool and mild weather in the spring slowed the pace of growth. By May, consistently favourable conditions returned, resulting in an early and successful flowering. Wet weather during fruit set in June contributed to larger-than-average berry sizes, creating the potential for generous yields. In some cases, berry sizes in 2023 were more than 20% larger than those in 2022, increasing the juice-to-skin ratio and adding complexity to the extraction process.

The major challenge of the season was downy mildew, exacerbated by sporadic thunderstorms and humid conditions. These fungi thrive in temperatures above 14°C, leading to widespread damage to both canopies and berries, particularly for Merlot. Rainfall varied widely across the region, making it difficult to generalize the season’s impact. Some vineyards were less affected, while others faced significant pressure, leading to disparities in yields across the region. Estates with more resources were better equipped to manage mildew through timely phytosanitary treatments, while others struggled. The effects of mildew largely explain the variability in yields and quality from one estate to another in 2023.

In August, the vintage took another twist with a heatwave that drastically altered the course of the season. Prior to this, the cooler weather and larger crop had resulted in slower ripening, reminiscent of vintages like 2012 or 2006. However, from mid-August onwards, the heatwave provided the ripening boost needed to achieve full phenolic maturity, contributing to the vintage’s richness and mid-palate density.

Harvest and Winemaking

The harvest began in early September for the earliest ripening Merlots, while Cabernet Sauvignon took longer to reach optimal maturity. Much like in 2021, the threat of rain around mid-September prompted some growers to pick earlier, though those who waited were rewarded with improved ripeness. The late-August heat and moderated rainfall helped ensure a balanced harvest for many producers, stretching the picking period over several weeks to optimize maturity for each parcel.

In the cellar, careful sorting was necessary to eliminate grapes affected by mildew or sunburn. With higher yields in some areas, many producers employed techniques like saignée (bleeding off juice) and reverse osmosis to concentrate their wines. Despite the challenges, the fruit was analytically sound, with strong tannins and anthocyanin levels comparable to 2022. This ensured that winemakers could craft wines with structure and ageing potential.

A Hybrid Vintage with Nuanced Appeal

Bordeaux 2023 does not fit neatly into the usual categories of sunny versus classic vintages. While the wines exhibit the ripe tannins and plush textures of a warm year, they also retain the fresh aromas and bright fruit of cooler, Atlantic-influenced vintages. The vintage amplifies the individual character of each estate and terroir, resulting in a more nuanced and varied expression across the region. Successful élevage will be key to preserving this balance of ripeness and vibrancy.

Although Bordeaux 2023 may not achieve the same level of commercial success as some previous vintages, it is a year worth rediscovering for its balance and character. While it may not rank alongside legendary vintages like 2016 or 2009/2010, Bordeaux 2023 is likely to provide long-term drinking pleasure, similar to vintages like 2001. Wines from this year may not have the immediate wow factor of 2022, but their terroir-driven, nuanced style is bound to appeal to connoisseurs.

Top Scoring wines of the campaign

L'Eglise-Clinet 2023 - 98-100 Points Vinous

Palmer 2023 - 98-100 Points Vinous

Lafleur 2023 - 97-99 Points

Mouton Rothschild 2023 - 96-99 Points

Cos d'Estournel 2023 - 96-98 Points

Figeac 2023 - 96-98 Points

Haut-Bailly 2023 - 96-98 Points

Giscours 2023 - 96-98 Points

Final thoughts of Bordeaux 2023

The Bordeaux 2023 vintage is one of contrasts and complexity, with varying success depending on the estate and terroir. Despite the challenges, including mildew and uneven ripening, the vintage has delivered wines of remarkable character, depth, and freshness. For those seeking classic Bordeaux structure with a modern twist, 2023 is a vintage to watch. As the en primeur campaign unfolds, the market will be closely watching pricing, which could offer consumers the opportunity to acquire high-quality wines at competitive prices.