Chateau Pontet-CanetProducer from Bordeaux, France

Pauillac, Bordeaux

Bordeaux 1855 Classification: Fifth Growth

Château Pontet-Canet, located in the prestigious Pauillac appellation, stands as one of the most remarkable success stories in recent Bordeaux history. Once ranked as a Fifth Growth in the 1855 Bordeaux classification, this estate has undergone a transformation so profound that it now consistently rivals the quality of First Growths. The story of Pontet-Canet is not just one of tradition and terroir but also of bold vision and meticulous dedication.

The origins of Pontet-Canet trace back to 1705 when Jean-François de Pontet, a royal governor of the Médoc, established the estate by uniting several parcels of land. Over time, an adjacent section from the Canet area was incorporated, giving the estate its full name. The château’s location on the plateau of deep gravel over limestone and clay soils—a terroir shared by some of Bordeaux’s most illustrious neighbours, such as Lafite Rothschild and Mouton Rothschild—has always hinted at its potential.

Despite its promising terroir, Pontet-Canet spent many years relatively unnoticed, only receiving a Fifth Growth status in the 1855 Classification, which was largely based on market demand at the time. However, it wasn’t until 1975, when Guy Tesseron, a well-established Cognac merchant, purchased the estate, that its potential began to be realised. The true renaissance of Pontet-Canet, however, began under the stewardship of Guy’s son, Alfred Tesseron, who took over in 1994.

Alfred Tesseron, alongside his long-time winemaking partner Jean-Michel Comme, embarked on a mission that would transform Pontet-Canet into a modern beacon of Bordeaux winemaking. Their approach was nothing short of revolutionary, especially considering the scale of the estate. Pontet-Canet spans 81 hectares, making it one of the largest vineyards in Pauillac. Converting an estate of this magnitude to fully organic and biodynamic practices was seen by many as a high-risk venture, but the results have been extraordinary.

The Terroir and Visionary Practices

Pontet-Canet’s terroir is quintessentially Pauillac, with its gravelly soils, ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, overlying clay and limestone, which provide the vines with essential water retention during the dry summer months. The estate’s proximity to the Gironde estuary also helps moderate temperatures, offering a natural buffer against extreme weather. But as essential as the terroir is, Alfred Tesseron understood that realising the full potential of Pontet-Canet required more than just great land—it needed a visionary approach to winemaking.

Under Tesseron’s leadership, Pontet-Canet became the first major Bordeaux producer to be certified as both organic and biodynamic. This journey began in earnest in 2004 when biodynamic trials were introduced in a portion of the vineyards. Despite setbacks, such as the severe mildew outbreak in 2007, Tesseron and Comme persevered, restarting the conversion process with renewed determination. By 2010, the estate was fully certified organic and biodynamic, achieving Biodyvin, Demeter, and Ecocert certifications.

One of the most striking aspects of Pontet-Canet’s modern winemaking process is the use of concrete eggs and clay amphorae for ageing a portion of the wine. These vessels, introduced in 2010 and 2012 respectively, are designed to enhance the expression of the terroir. The clay amphorae, in particular, are crafted using gravel stones and limestone from the estate’s best vineyard plots, adding a unique dimension to the wine’s development. Additionally, the winery’s commitment to sustainability is evident in its use of horses for ploughing half of the vineyards and geothermal energy to power the estate.

In 2019, Pontet-Canet introduced a new, innovative hand-sorting and destemming system, underscoring its dedication to precision and quality. Despite the challenges of recent vintages, including a devastating mildew attack in 2018 that drastically reduced yields, Pontet-Canet has emerged stronger, producing wines that critics have described as among the finest in Bordeaux.