February 17, 2024

Judgement of London: Blind Tastings of Kumeu River

In the world of wine, blind tastings are a definitive way to gauge a wine's true quality, free from biases associated with brand names, labels, or regions. One such significant event was the Judgement of Paris in 1976, where Californian wines unexpectedly outperformed prestigious French wines in a blind tasting. Organized by Steven Spurrier, this event revolutionized the wine industry, challenging traditional perceptions and elevating the global status of Californian wines.

Recreating the idea, the "Judgement of London," brought a spotlight onto New Zealand's Kumeu River wines, particularly its renowned Chardonnays, comparing them against some of the world's most prestigious wines.

The Judgement of London highlighted the extraordinary quality and potential of Kumeu River Chardonnays, firmly establishing them among the world's best. This blind tasting not only showcased the exceptional craftsmanship of the Brajkovich family but also underscored the unique terroir of the Kumeu region. For wine enthusiasts and collectors, Kumeu River wines offer a compelling blend of elegance, complexity, and authenticity, making them a must-have in any serious wine collection. The triumph of Kumeu River at the Judgement of London is a testament to the winery's dedication to excellence and its place on the global stage.

This article is based on the original tasting hosted by Farr Vintners in London. Their full notes can be found here. Further articles on the event are available here.

The Rise of Kumeu River

Kumeu River Wines, located just outside Auckland, New Zealand, has been crafting exceptional wines since its founding by the Brajkovich family in 1944. The winery's reputation has been built on its dedication to quality and a deep understanding of their unique terroir. Over the years, Kumeu River has become particularly celebrated for its Chardonnays, which have consistently garnered acclaim for their elegance, complexity, and balance. The Brajkovich family, led by winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW, adheres to a philosophy of minimal intervention, allowing the character of the vineyard to shine through in the wines. The Chardonnays are known for their Burgundy-inspired style, featuring intricate layers of fruit, minerality, and well-integrated oak. This approach has positioned Kumeu River as a leading producer of premium Chardonnay outside of Burgundy.

The Judgement of London

Concept and Organization

Inspired by the historic "Judgement of Paris" tasting in 1976, the "Judgement of London" aimed to pit Kumeu River Chardonnays against some of the best Chardonnays from Burgundy and other renowned regions in a blind tasting format. The event was organized by wine critics and industry experts to assess how well New Zealand's top Chardonnays could stand up to their international counterparts.

The Tasting Panel

The tasting panel comprised esteemed sommeliers, wine critics, and Masters of Wine, ensuring a high level of expertise and impartiality. The blind tasting format meant that the tasters had no knowledge of the identities of the wines, allowing for an unbiased evaluation based purely on the wine's qualities.

The Wines in the Spotlight

Kumeu River Chardonnays

Kumeu River entered several of its top Chardonnays into the tasting, including the iconic Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, Coddington Chardonnay, Hunting Hill Chardonnay, and Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay. Each of these wines represents the pinnacle of Kumeu River's winemaking, showcasing different expressions of the region's terroir.

Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay: Known for its balance and elegance, this wine features notes of citrus, stone fruit, and subtle oak, with a vibrant acidity that ensures longevity.
Coddington Chardonnay: This single-vineyard wine is characterized by its rich texture and concentrated flavors of peach, apricot, and toast, with a creamy mouthfeel and a long finish.
Hunting Hill Chardonnay: Noted for its minerality and finesse, Hunting Hill offers aromas of lemon zest, white flowers, and a hint of flint, with a precise and linear palate.
Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay: The flagship wine of Kumeu River, Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay, is celebrated for its complexity and depth, with flavors of ripe citrus, brioche, and a touch of hazelnut, balanced by crisp acidity.

The Competition

The Kumeu River wines were up against some formidable competitors from Burgundy, California, and Australia. These included revered labels such as Domaine Leflaive, Bouchard Père et Fils, and Kistler, among others. The selection ensured that the tasting would be a rigorous test of Kumeu River's standing in the global Chardonnay landscape.

The Results and Impact

A Triumph for Kumeu River

The results of the Judgement of London were nothing short of spectacular for Kumeu River. The wines received high praise for their quality, complexity, and balance, often matching or surpassing the scores of their illustrious counterparts. The tasters were particularly impressed by the consistency and distinctive character of the Kumeu River Chardonnays.

In the blind tasting organized by Farr Vintners, Kumeu River wines triumphed over some of Burgundy's best. Notably, the Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2012 won its flight against Meursault Clos du Cromin from Javillier and Puligny Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive. The Coddington Chardonnay 2010 emerged as the winner in its flight, outperforming several Premier Cru Chassagne Montrachets. The 2009 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay tied for first place with Bouchard Meursault Perrieres, and the Hunting Hill Chardonnay 2007 had the highest score in its flight, besting renowned Premier Cru Puligny Montrachets.

Notable Highlights

Kumeu River Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay emerged as one of the top wines of the tasting, drawing comparisons to some of Burgundy's finest. Its depth, elegance, and precise balance of fruit and acidity stood out to the panel.
Hunting Hill Chardonnay was lauded for its minerality and finesse, highlighting the unique terroir of the Kumeu region and its ability to produce world-class Chardonnays.
The Coddington Chardonnay and Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay also received strong accolades, reinforcing the overall strength and quality across Kumeu River's portfolio.

Industry Reactions

The success of Kumeu River at the Judgement of London had a significant impact on the perception of New Zealand wines, particularly Chardonnay, within the global wine community. Industry experts and consumers alike took note of the exceptional quality coming from Kumeu River, leading to increased interest and demand for their wines.

This tasting event not only highlighted the exceptional craftsmanship of the Brajkovich family but also underscored the unique terroir of the Kumeu region. For wine enthusiasts and collectors, Kumeu River wines offer a compelling blend of elegance, complexity, and authenticity, making them a must-have in any serious wine collection. The triumph of Kumeu River at the Judgement of London is a testament to the winery's dedication to excellence and its place on the global stage.