Porseleinberg: South Africa's First Growth Wine

For those who don't know, Porseleinberg is considered to be a First Growth of South Africa by leading wine critic Tim Atkin MW. Since its inception in 2010, the wine has grown to a cult status. Wine critics such as Neal Martin have been singing the praises of Porseleinberg, with the 2017 vintage being announced as one of the best wines that he drank in 2019. It was even more of a surprise for the wine world as some of the other names on the list included Mountain '82, Petrus '55, and DRC La Tache '37. The 2018 vintage finally saw the wine receive 100 points from Tim Atkin MW, and since then, it has been difficult to track down.

Tim Atkin MW described the 2018 vintage as "another scented, seamless stunner from Callie Louw. Aged in large foudres and 5% concrete eggs, it's a spicy, sappy, hauntingly elegant Syrah from a brutal site, with kelp, rose petal, and fynbos aromas, juicy bramble and red berry fruit, fine tannins, and a wonderful sense of energy." This endorsement solidified Porseleinberg’s reputation as a must-have wine for collectors and enthusiasts.

The Rise of Porseleinberg

Inception and Cult Status

Porseleinberg, located in the Swartland region of South Africa, was established in 2010 under the guidance of winemaker Callie Louw. The vineyard's name is derived from the porcelain-like soil found in the area, which contributes to the unique terroir that defines the wine’s character. The region's rugged terrain and harsh climate present significant challenges for viticulture, but it is precisely these conditions that produce grapes of exceptional quality.

Since its debut, Porseleinberg has quickly ascended to cult status, garnering critical acclaim from some of the most respected voices in the wine industry. The wine's distinct style, marked by a balance of power and elegance, has made it a standout in both domestic and international markets. The 2017 vintage, in particular, captured the attention of wine critic Neal Martin, who included it in his list of the best wines he drank in 2019, alongside legendary names such as Mountain '82, Petrus '55, and DRC La Tache '37.

2018 Vintage: A Milestone Achievement

The 2018 vintage of Porseleinberg was a landmark for the winery, earning a perfect 100-point score from Tim Atkin MW. This accolade not only cemented the wine’s status as a top-tier offering but also highlighted the exceptional skill of winemaker Callie Louw. Atkin's description of the wine emphasizes its complexity and elegance, noting its "spicy, sappy, hauntingly elegant" nature, with aromas of kelp, rose petal, and fynbos, and flavours of juicy bramble and red berries.

The meticulous winemaking process, which includes ageing in large foudres and 5% concrete eggs, contributes to the wine’s unique profile. The use of these vessels allows for a slow, controlled ageing process that enhances the wine's aromatic complexity and textural finesse. The 2018 vintage’s perfect score has made it a sought-after item among collectors, leading to increased demand and scarcity in the market.

The 2020 Vintage: Continuing Excellence

The 2020 release of Porseleinberg does not deviate from its path of excellence, scoring 98 points and earning the joint second spot in Tim Atkin's South Africa 2022 Report, just one point behind the legendary Columella from Sadie. Neal Martin's score of 97 points further supports the wine, highlighting it as "Old World in style, very focused, it gently builds momentum to a bewitchingly complex Porseleinberg that will give 20-30 years drinking pleasure. Divine."

These high scores from prominent critics underscore the consistent quality of Porseleinberg’s offerings. The 2020 vintage, with its old-world charm and focused structure, promises to age gracefully, providing drinking pleasure for decades. The combination of critical acclaim and limited availability makes each vintage a valuable addition to any wine cellar.

The Unique Terroir of Porseleinberg

Soil and Climate

The unique terroir of Porseleinberg is a key factor in the wine’s exceptional quality. The vineyard’s soil is rich in schist and clay, with a distinct porcelain-like quality that gives the estate its name. These soils are well-draining, which encourages deep root growth and results in grapes with concentrated flavours and balanced acidity.

The Swartland region’s climate also plays a crucial role in shaping the character of Porseleinberg wines. The area experiences hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters, with significant diurnal temperature variations. These conditions help to preserve the grapes’ natural acidity while promoting the development of complex flavours. The vineyard’s elevation and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean also provide a cooling influence, further enhancing the balance and freshness of the wines.

Sustainable Practices

Sustainability is a core principle at Porseleinberg, with a focus on organic farming and minimal intervention. The vineyard employs cover cropping, composting, and natural pest management techniques to maintain soil health and promote biodiversity. These practices not only protect the environment but also contribute to the quality and purity of the grapes.

In the winery, Callie Louw emphasizes a hands-off approach, allowing the wines to express their true character. Fermentation is carried out using indigenous yeasts, and the wines are aged in a combination of large foudres and concrete eggs. This minimalist approach ensures that the wines reflect the unique terroir of Porseleinberg and the vintage conditions of each year.

Tasting Notes: A Sensory Journey

Porseleinberg wines are renowned for their complexity, balance, and ageing potential. Each vintage offers a unique sensory experience, showcasing the distinctive qualities of the vineyard and the skill of the winemaker.

Aromas and Flavours

Porseleinberg Syrah is characterized by its deep, dark colour and intense aromas. On the nose, it presents a complex bouquet of dark fruits such as blackberry, plum, and black cherry, complemented by notes of rose petals, fynbos, and kelp. Subtle hints of spice, leather, and smoked meat add depth and intrigue to the aromatic profile.

On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and concentrated, with layers of flavour that unfold with each sip. Juicy bramble and red berry fruits dominate, with underlying notes of earth, mineral, and spice. The wine’s fine tannins and vibrant acidity provide structure and balance, leading to a long, elegant finish.

Ageing Potential

One of the hallmarks of Porseleinberg wines is their impressive ageing potential. The combination of concentrated fruit, balanced acidity, and firm tannins ensures that the wines can develop and evolve over many years. Vintages like the 2018 and 2020 are expected to age gracefully for 20-30 years, gaining additional complexity and nuance with time.

Collectibility

Porseleinberg’s cult status and limited production make each vintage highly collectable. The wines’ consistent quality and critical acclaim have driven demand, with bottles often becoming scarce shortly after release. For collectors and enthusiasts, securing a case of Porseleinberg is not only a testament to their appreciation for fine wine but also a wise investment in a cellar-worthy gem.

As one of the most exciting new world wines, Porseleinberg offers a unique expression of South African terroir and winemaking excellence. The combination of rugged natural beauty, meticulous viticulture, and minimalist winemaking results in wines of unparalleled quality and distinction. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a passionate enthusiast, adding Porseleinberg to your cellar promises a rewarding and memorable experience. Open a bottle now to enjoy its youthful vibrancy, or let it age to discover the full depth and complexity that time will reveal.

 

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