Taaibosch: The Revival of a Stellenbosch Legend
Taaibosch Crescendo is one of the most captivating stories to emerge from the Cape winelands in recent years. Its creation marks the remarkable rebirth of one of South Africa’s most revered fine wines, the Cordoba Crescendo, a label that achieved cult status in the 1990s under the guidance of Chris Keet. For many, opening a bottle of the 1995 vintage remains one of the great experiences in South African wine. Then, almost overnight, the winery disappeared, leaving behind a legend that seemed lost to time.
That legacy has now been revived. In 2017, the Oddo family, who also own estates in Sancerre, Provence and Sicily, acquired the historic Helderberg property. They appointed winemaker Schalk-Willem Joubert, formerly of Rupert & Rothschild, to lead the new era. His mission was clear: to honour the memory of Cordoba while crafting a wine that could once again stand among the Cape’s finest.
Perched on the slopes of the Helderberg overlooking False Bay, the estate’s vineyards enjoy ideal growing conditions. The combination of elevation, sea breezes and complex soils gives the wines their signature freshness and structure. Unlike much of the surrounding Helderberg, where soils are dominated by sandstone and granite, Taaibosch sits on a lens of weathered Malmesbury shale. This unique composition, rich in iron and aluminium oxides, contributes both colour and mineral depth, giving Crescendo its distinctive, earthy character.
The Crescendo
The first release of the modern era, Taaibosch Crescendo 2018, announced the estate’s return in style. A classic Cape Bordeaux blend inspired by Cheval Blanc, it combines 65 percent Cabernet Franc, 30 percent Merlot and 5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon from vines over 20 years old. All grapes are hand-picked, fermented naturally and handled entirely by gravity.
Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and cement tanks, followed by extended maceration to deepen colour and complexity. The wine then matures for three years in a combination of 225-litre French oak barriques, 9000-litre foudres and 4500-litre cement tanks. Each vessel brings its own dimension: the oak lends spice and structure, the foudre adds elegance, and the cement preserves purity and tension.
The result is a wine that balances restraint and depth. Aromas of violets, graphite, redcurrant and cedar lead into a finely structured palate, full of dark fruit, mineral grip and saline energy. The tannins are firm yet polished, promising long ageing potential. With time in glass, the 2018 unfolds beautifully, revealing layers of complexity that recall the great Cordoba vintages while showing a more modern sense of poise and refinement.
Taaibosch Crescendo is not designed for immediacy. Like the best of Bordeaux, it is built to age gracefully, evolving over decades. The wine’s gravitas, balance and quiet intensity capture everything that makes the Helderberg special: elevation, maritime influence and soils that shape wines of rare precision.