Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2021

This is another hand-harvested wine, whole-bunch pressed, wild yeast fermented in 100% oak, and it spends 11 months in barrel (25% new) after malo. ‘Estate’ is a big step up from the preceding white wines, and please remember that this vintage is a little shorter, so there will inevitably be pressure on stock. It is drawn from six sites, and they are the strongest in the portfolio. This is a terrific wine and one that sums up the history, determination and high standards of this estate and the family who have worked so hard to build its reputation. It is the pick of the line-up if you are after a forward-drinking but grand-feeling wine (hence my earlier mention of inevitable stock pressure). The stunning nose and raspy finish bookend silky, layered, kindly fruit, making it a joy to taste. It also has enough acidity to build over time, and this wins it a ‘+’, too.

• Reviewer Name: Matthew Jukes