Standard - 75cl
It's been a while, alas. The last vintage of this legendary wine was 2015. Skipping forward to a year of natural richness and concentration, the Giacomo Conterno 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a magnificently executed wine. It carefully reins in the soaring power of Nebbiolo and whittles it down to extreme finesse and precision. This is the essence of the grape with no extra bells or whistles. Roberto Conterno tells me he chose not to make Monfortino in 2016 because he considered 2015 to be a superior vintage. (There is an image problem with 2015, he concedes, because 2016 was more consistent overall than 2015; however, his experience with 2015 is better.) The 2017 vintage was a contender for Monfortino, but the wine was not made. The 2018 vintage also came close to production, but a lack of diurnal temperature shifts at the end of the growing season disqualified it, Roberto Conterno explains. His heart settled on 2019, a vintage that reminds him of the tension and energy found in 2013. However, the DNA of the 2019 vintage is slightly different because this edition sees 27% fruit blended from Arione. This site adds finesse and elegance. The rest of the blend represents a special selection from Francia, and that is where this wine gets its power and age-worthy tannins. The 2019 will be released in October 2025.
Demonstrating the meticulous precision for which the estate is known, the 2019 Monfortino is a thoroughbred. I was able to taste it on a couple of occasions during its maturation, after the blend of Francia and Arione was made. Since bottling last spring, it has retreated into itself and now just hints at black tea, truffle and dark wet earth. The tannins are still rigid and stubborn, though very sophisticated and inextricable from the fruit, while the acidity is simply salivating. Glimpses of baked earth, granite and graphite appear, but truly, this will take years to unfold. For now, it’s all iron fist. The yet-to-be-bottled 2020 which I tasted alongside will likely be approachable long before this.
The 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino has closed down considerably since I last tasted it. Then again, the 2019 is a very serious Monfortino that includes the entirety of Conterno’s production from both Francia and Arione. Today, the tannins are pretty imposing, but modern Monfortinos have shown an ability to assimilate their tannin with much less time in bottle than was once required. Production for the 2019 is on the higher side because of the blending of sites, so readers should have a relatively easy time sourcing this.