Vertical Tasting: Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus

Larmandier-Bernier is a name that commands respect among Champagne aficionados. Known for their dedication to biodynamic farming and minimal intervention in the cellar, this estate produces some of the most expressive and terroir-driven Champagnes in the region. One of their standout cuvées is the Terre de Vertus, a single-vineyard, single-varietal (Chardonnay), and non-dosage Champagne that epitomises purity and place. In this article, we delve into a vertical tasting of Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus, exploring the nuances of different vintages and how time and terroir shape these exceptional wines.

 

The Essence of Terre de Vertus:

The Terre de Vertus cuvée comes from a specific plot in the Premier Cru village of Vertus, located in the southern part of the Côte des Blancs. This area is renowned for its chalky soils, which impart a distinct minerality to the wines. Terre de Vertus is made exclusively from Chardonnay, and it is vinified without the addition of dosage (extra sugar), allowing the pure expression of the terroir to shine through.

Pierre and Sophie Larmandier, the passionate duo behind the estate, have been practising biodynamic viticulture since the late 1990s. Their meticulous care in the vineyard and hands-off approach in the cellar result in wines that are both vibrant and profound, showcasing the unique characteristics of each vintage.

Vertical tastings offer a fascinating glimpse into how a single wine evolves over different years. For this vertical tasting, we examined several vintages of Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus, noting the distinct attributes and common threads that run through them.

 

2016 Terre de Vertus

The 2016 Larmandier-Bernier Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, honeycomb, and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it is bright and chiseled, with excellent depth at the core, racy acids, and a long, penetrating finish. The Larmandier family invariably excels in cooler, more classic vintages, and this wine is no exception to that rule. The wine’s balance and precision make it a standout in the vertical tasting.

 

2015 Terre de Vertus

The 2015 Larmandier-Bernier Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus is a powerful and generous wine. It offers aromas of peach, orange oil, ripe melon, white cherries, buttery pastry, and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, layered, and fleshy, this vintage presents a vinous, muscular profile with a long, gently mordant finish. This year’s warm conditions are reflected in the wine’s richness and depth, making it one of the more robust entries in the vertical tasting.

 

2014 Terre de Vertus

Disgorged in January 2020, the 2014 Larmandier-Bernier Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus is a fine follow-up to the excellent 2013 and 2012 renditions. Unwinding in the glass with scents of white flowers, citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit, fresh pastry, and almonds, it is full-bodied, layered, and vinous, with more richness and mid-palate amplitude than the tauter 2013, underpinned by racy acids and chalky structuring extract. The wine’s complexity and balance highlight the finesse of the 2014 vintage.

 

2013 Terre de Vertus

Revisited from an October 2019 disgorgement, the 2013 Larmandier-Bernier Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus continues to show very well. This vintage mingles aromas of crisp orchard fruit, beeswax, pear, smoke, iodine, and toasted almonds in a complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, layered, and incisive, it is very concentrated, with racy acids and a pungently saline finish that is site-typical. The cooler conditions of 2013 are evident in the wine’s vibrant acidity and precision.

 

2012 Terre de Vertus

Disgorged without dosage in March 2019, the 2012 Larmandier-Bernier Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus is showing beautifully. It unwinds in the glass with scents of citrus oil, green apple, crisp apricot, pastry cream, and toasted almonds. Medium to full-bodied, layered, and vinous, it is concentrated and textural, with a bright spine of acidity, a pinpoint mousse, and a long, saline finish. The 2012 vintage, derived from lieu-dit Les Barillers, located at mid-slope in Vertus, is a testament to the estate’s ability to craft wines of exceptional purity and complexity.

 

See all wines and vintages available of Larmandier-Bernier.