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A welcome relief from the blandness of many commercial Sauvignon Blancs, this is an ambitious, dynamically farmed white from the brilliant team at Reyneke. Sappy, reductive and nettley, with a flinty note that's reminiscent of a great Pouilly-Fumé and a long, saline finish. 2020-24
The 2018 White Reserve Biodynamic comprises whole-bunch-pressed Sauvignon Blanc fermented on the lees in barrel for 11 months. It has a beguiling nose that stops you in your tracks, presenting a mixture of yellow flowers, gooseberry tart, orange blossom and just a very slight reduction that works in its favor. The palate is wonderfully balanced, harmonious and nuanced, offering a fine bead of acidity and delicate kiwi fruit, nettle and dandelion notes intermixed with Granny Smith apples on the finish. Clever winemaking.
Johan Reyneke is a true maverick of South Africa. After taking over the wine estate in 1998 from his mother, Johan decided to follow the biodynamic viticulture philosophies set out by Rudoph Steiner. Reyneke was therefore South Africa’s first biodynamic wine farm. No chemicals, no technological advancements and organic farming. Johan’s main aim has never been to create profit for himself but for people to enjoy his wines. Therefore, his wines are still very reasonably priced, especially at the Biodynamic Range which is outstanding.
Over the past 20 years, Reyneke’s reputation has grown with leading South Africa wine critic Tim Atkin MW classifying Reyneke as a First Growth. The praise from the international wine critics does not stop there. “I can vouchsafe the quality of these wines that are complex and thought-provoking, magically manifesting great fruit intensity” declares Neal Martin of Vinous; whilst Jancis Robinson praises the Reserve White as one of the world's most beautiful sauvignon blancs. “Get ahold of some and check them out. These are good and honest biodynamic wines that give pleasure now but can be held in the cellar for aging if you prefer more mature wines.” concludes Anthony Mueller from the Wine Advocate.